School me on 2-steps and nitrous

[yota]

Thinking about a 2-step for the Trans Am but I have some questions and want to make sure my thinking is correct.

I'm thinking that I can set the 2-step to around 3000 rpms on the foot brake and then when I release the 2step/foot brake to launch, have the nitrous (200 shot through a 90mm plate, stand alone fuel system) come in from 3500-6500ish with my MSD window switch, activated by a WOT switch. I'm planning to shift around 67-6800 and set the rev limiter to 7000. Nitrous pressure is being controlled by a 4500 NANO system. Trans is a 4l80e with a 9" Moser rear and 3" moly drive shaft with 1350 joints. I'm planning a custom built 3800 stall FTI converter and a large B&M cooler for the trans as well. Let me know if you need any more info about my setup, but I think I hit all the high points that might pertain to the situation and then some...

Does my plan sound fairly solid and is my thinking about how to set all of this up sound safe and correct? I've never messed with this type of setup before and don't want to screw anything up. I've got too much money in it to watch it go boom on the first hit...

[slowgreen99]

Id relay the arming of the nitrous to turn off when the 2 step is active. Just because its set at 3000 and windowed at 3500 doesnt mean it wont hit. Also, id have it armed to come off the release of the 2 step anyway. Why the 500 rpm gap?

[slowgreen99]

To be honest, just shoot it on a wide open switch. You dont need a 2 step without a trans brake on a nitrous car. Just load it up a little and fire it off.

[yota]

So basically, I'd be buying a fairly useless gadget (for my application) that is only good for blowing out people's eardrums in a parking lot on Saturday nights?

[slowgreen99]

IMO yes. And is the trans not built? I dont see why you cant shoot through the shifts with the correct converter.

[yota]

Yes, the trans is being built. It's not a high dollar, built to the moon build, but it's getting some pretty decent new hard parts installed in it. It should hold 700ish hp on the bottle just fine- at least I hope, as that was the whole reason for going with a 4l80. As far as the converter goes, I am basically saving it for last as so many things have changed along the way with this build and I don't want to end up with the wrong one. I am in the short rows now so the plan is to call up FTI and tell them everything I've got, how the car is going to be driven, etc. and let them take it from there. Also, just to be clear, you're saying set the upper limit on the window switch and the shift point at the same rpm?

[slowgreen99]

I say dont buy a window switch. Let the nitrous be on while youre at WOT. Your foots on the floor for a reason. That reason is to let it eat. So, let it eat!

[slowgreen99]

Oh, one other thing is distribution of the nawz. The intake design on a LS motor being fed through the front could make for a fun tune up. So my other opinion on your setup would be a single plane with a throttle body and a plate. Or, tap a fogger into your existing intake.

[yota]

I've already got the window switch and figured it was more of a safety thing if nothing else... I can always set the top limit on the window well above anything the motor will ever see so that it really only sets a hard bottom to prevent spraying below a certain rpm...

As for the intake design, I've already spent well over $1,000 on a Tony Mamo ported FAST intake and a Nick Williams TB. Plenty of people spray up to a 200 shot successfully on that intake style. Anything higher than that, and I agree a single plane setup is warranted but right now I want to avoid cutting up the cowl on the car. I'm going to have a stand alone fuel system mounted up front with race gas in it for when I'm spraying, so at least I'm not relying on pump gas drawn off of the rail...

[slowgreen99]

It should work. I was referencing a lot o nitrous I guess you could say. So yeah, 200 should work out.

[yota]

Yeah, this is all going on a stock bottom end street car :gears:

Thanks for all the input!

[yota]

This was suggested to me on another forum... looks like it might do the trick too...

You can use a spdt relay for the 2 step activation. Like this-

http://coldfusionn2o.com/wiring_intstructions/platekitwithtransbrake.gif

Of course the relay will be for the 2 step activation, instead of the transbrake.

when you hit the 2 step button, power goes through that relay to the actual 2 step. As soon as you let off the button, power goes to your solenoids. the solenoids will still be controlled by the window switch, which basically applies ground to the coil of your nitrous relay when in the window.

[slowgreen99]

Right, still dont see the need for the 2 step but yeah, thats how mine comes on off of the trans brake.

[Carlrx7]

I have a LS MSD 2-step for sale if you haven't picked one up yet.

-Carl

[yota]

Edited another response for grammar and punctuation, but this was posted at the same time your reply was in the other thread...

Find out what the foot brake stall will be. Basically what rpm it will hold on the foot brake, and bring the rpm down 500-800 rpm. When I ran a th350 trans with no trans brake I could get 2900-3000 foot braking rpm but could never get a consistent 60ft, so I dropped the 2-step down to 2400 and had the window switch turn nitrous on at 3000. It helped a lot to the tune of 1.27-1.29 60ft times. The best I could do otherwise was 1.33. Bringing the rpm down allows the flash stall to be higher than if on a trans brake and is basically running at the converter. Even with the trans brake now, I bring the rpm below the actual stall it will do on dead wood

Apparently, this is how HITMAN was running his setup when he went 8's on 346ci in his nitrous LS car so I guess it works and the logic makes sense. I'm gonna try it out and see how it works. Worst case scenario, I'm out $200 for a 2-step and some relays but that's still a lot cheaper than a trans brake setup and should be dead nuts reliable/consistent once it's all set up

[yota]

I have a LS MSD 2-step for sale if you haven't picked one up yet.

-Carl

I haven't. How much do you want for it? PM/text me some info and pics please. Whichever is easiest. 919-97two-18one0 if you'd rather text it

Thanks

[Carlrx7]

sent

[FRDnemesis]

To be honest, just shoot it on a wide open switch. You dont need a 2 step without a trans brake on a nitrous car. Just load it up a little and fire it off.

I don't see why either.



IMO yes. And is the trans not built? I dont see why you cant shoot through the shifts with the correct converter.

I don't see why either. If your trans is built and if you have a nitrous converter, shoot that pig from home to the finish line.

If your trans/converter can't handle it, then that is the only reason I'd use a window switch on a automatic car.




I say dont buy a window switch. Let the nitrous be on while youre at WOT. Your foots on the floor for a reason. That reason is to let it eat. So, let it eat!


^^^ yep :bigthumb:

Yeah, this is all going on a stock bottom end street car :gears:

Thanks for all the input!


I used to shoot a 200 from home on my stock bottom end LT1 with just a WOT switch (no 2-step or window switch); change your rod bolts and feed that LSJuan :mrgreen:

[ElecTech]

If your trans/converter can't handle it, then that is the only reason I'd use a window switch on a automatic car.



It would be more for keeping it out of the limiter with the nitrous on. The window should be set higher than the auto shift point, but below the limiter in case something breaks and you don't respond in time.

The other purpose, obviously, is to be able to delay the on point if you have a traction issue.

[FRDnemesis]

It would be more for keeping it out of the limiter with the nitrous on. The window should be set higher than the auto shift point, but below the limiter in case something breaks and you don't respond in time. .

I guess I can see that; makes sense.


The other purpose, obviously, is to be able to delay the on point if you have a traction issue.


In that case, I'd invest in a progressive controller over a window switch. But if that's all he's got it will work but he's losing ET. SPRAY from home Yota!!! :mrgreen:

[yota]

I've got a pretty good plan in the works at this point. I'll let everyone know how it works out, but I'll be spraying out of the hole and consistently until the pull is over.


Tap dat talk

[bwelch]

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/nos-15974nos?seid=srese1&gclid=CP3A8bD-orkCFY3m7AodtgMAQQ

I have installed this on a couple newer cars and it works great. It has a window switch and 2 stage progressive. It has tps signal for activation.