nitrous questions

[Pesce Nero]

i want to get a msd timming retard, how would you guys trigger it for spray?
i'm not sure if i want the timming retard triggered by the micro swith or the system switch.

the nitrous arming switch, could i use it to trigger fuel pump relay and micro switch? this way one swich arms the whole system. and then have the noid relay after the micro swith??? i hope this will be next weeks project and trying to wrap my brain around everything

another question, is do most guys shoot from home or use a button to turn it on after you launch? i may be a little nervous about shooting from home on my frist couple passes. the small kit in the six pack plate system is a 150

i'm thinking i want to get msd 8982 and maybe i want a button too. i dont know. my funds are really low and i'm going to try finding the retard used on ebay or RJ

also, does anyone have the big fuel pressure guage with line that you put fuel jet in to set the pressure.

thats alot of questions:hide:

[WWhittle]

you could put it on a button or you could put it on an RPM activated switch. personally, i like the button if a progressive is out of the budget. if you shoot it from home and the tires spin, you can just let go of the button without lifting off the gas. also good if you ever decide to grudge race- you can be on and off the button whenever you need or want to be.
as far as wiring it- i would put it on 2 different switches simply for the times you are working on it. it probably doesn't really matter though.
as far as the retard- i would have it activate off the button. that way if you want to shoot it in the street, or at half track or whatever, your timing isn't retarded until you actually shoot it.
and you realize that if you have it on a button, you do not have a microswitch, right?

[WWhittle]

and if you need a flow gauge- i have one, and so do alot of other people. you shouldn't have any trouble borrowing one.
i would suggest making your own or buying one though if you are going to have nitrous on your car.

[Darryl Buckner]

I run the MSD digital 7 box. You can program it to retard up to 3 different times, for 3 different stages. All you have to do is simply connect the 12 volt sence wire to the first stage solenoids. When the box see's 12 volts on that wire it automatically removes the ammount of timing you programmed it to remove. It has 3 different sence wires, for multiple stages, different power adders, ect. That ignition box is the bomb. I use mine in conjunction with a Schnitz racing progressive nitrous timer. For instance my old 426 windsor was about 600hp plus the 175hp of nitrous. In the class I run in, I am limited to small tires, so what I did was program what they call a slew rate in the Digital 7, which progressively ramps in the ignition timing on a curve that I programmed into it. The nitrous timer ramps in at its timed rate, and you are done. My car leaves with the nitrous activated at 12 degrees of timing, it takes 1.5 seconds to ramp it in to 26 degrees. Or if I feel rear froggy, I can set the nitrous times to zero, turn the slew rate off, and leave the gate with 175 from home, and 26 degrees all at once. I like the box because in bracket racing I typically run 34 degrees of timing on motor only. Well if I want to shoot, all I have to do is activate the nitrous timer and nitrous system, all the same switch, and when the Digital 7 see's 12volts on the solenoid wire, it knows to automatically pull the preprogrammed amount of timing. The great thing is I didn't have to touch the distributor. They are cool boxes, but that is my opinion..:bigthumb:

[WWhittle]

I run the MSD digital 7 box. You can program it to retard up to 3 different times, for 3 different stages. All you have to do is simply connect the 12 volt sence wire to the first stage solenoids. When the box see's 12 volts on that wire it automatically removes the ammount of timing you programmed it to remove. It has 3 different sence wires, for multiple stages, different power adders, ect. That ignition box is the bomb. I use mine in conjunction with a Schnitz racing progressive nitrous timer. For instance my old 426 windsor was about 600hp plus the 175hp of nitrous. In the class I run in, I am limited to small tires, so what I did was program what they call a slew rate in the Digital 7, which progressively ramps in the ignition timing on a curve that I programmed into it. The nitrous timer ramps in at its timed rate, and you are done. My car leaves with the nitrous activated at 12 degrees of timing, it takes 1.5 seconds to ramp it in to 26 degrees. Or if I feel rear froggy, I can set the nitrous times to zero, turn the slew rate off, and leave the gate with 175 from home, and 26 degrees all at once. I like the box because in bracket racing I typically run 34 degrees of timing on motor only. Well if I want to shoot, all I have to do is activate the nitrous timer and nitrous system, all the same switch, and when the Digital 7 see's 12volts on the solenoid wire, it knows to automatically pull the preprogrammed amount of timing. The great thing is I didn't have to touch the distributor. They are cool boxes, but that is my opinion..:bigthumb:


that is obviously the way to go- but he said he was on a tight budget- the box alone is over 900.

[Pesce Nero]

Darryl, your a bit out of my league with that stuff. only reason i have a msd 6al is because someone gave it to me. i had a stock ignition for the past 5 years

i like the retard off the button. thats a good idea. think i would still use the microswitch though. just in case i get crossed up and forget to let go of the button.

my car is so far behind on safety shit, i shouldnt even be worring about this stuff

[1iron]

I use the power to my fuel solenoid to activate my timing retard.

[Darryl Buckner]

that is obviously the way to go- but he said he was on a tight budget- the box alone is over 900.

My bad, I must have missed the budget thing. My box was in the high 600 range, I guess because mine don't have the traction control option. I know your car has atleast a Digital 7 or maybe even a digital 8..:bigthumb:

[BAD BOB]

GRAB THE FIRST GUN FROM HOME THEN THE OTHER AT 60':bigthumb:

[WWhittle]

Darryl, your a bit out of my league with that stuff. only reason i have a msd 6al is because someone gave it to me. i had a stock ignition for the past 5 years

i like the retard off the button. thats a good idea. think i would still use the microswitch though. just in case i get crossed up and forget to let go of the button.

my car is so far behind on safety shit, i shouldnt even be worring about this stuff

i wouldn't do all that. i would just use the button- it will become second nature.

My bad, I must have missed the budget thing. My box was in the high 600 range, I guess because mine don't have the traction control option. I know your car has atleast a Digital 7 or maybe even a digital 8..:bigthumb:

Yes, digital 7, BS3, racepak and AMS1000. check the prices of the Digital boxes now- they went way up.

GRAB THE FIRST GUN FROM HOME THEN THE OTHER AT 60':bigthumb:

that's what i'm talkin about- and hide the second one and tell everyone you only have one.

[Pesce Nero]

wes, do you have something against the micro switch? i look at it as a safety feature and already have it mounted but if you have a reason why you just prefer not to have it i would be interested to hear it. it really wont be any more trouble since i need to wire the whole system and dont have all the pieces i need yet anyway

also, at the PRI show i saw some intakes with a gun inside the plenum. that would be a sneaky place for a second weapon for sure

[WWhittle]

wes, do you have something against the micro switch? i look at it as a safety feature and already have it mounted but if you have a reason why you just prefer not to have it i would be interested to hear it. it really wont be any more trouble since i need to wire the whole system and dont have all the pieces i need yet anyway

also, at the PRI show i saw some intakes with a gun inside the plenum. that would be a sneaky place for a second weapon for sure


no, i don't have anything against them- i just wouldn't want to be relying on so many different things to activate my nitrous. either a microswitch or a button, but not both, would be my preference.

Those plenum systems are sweet but you still have some solenoids hanging off of it somewhere. It's alot easier to hide a second dry system, but you aren't fuel injected.

[Darryl Buckner]

wes, do you have something against the micro switch? i look at it as a safety feature and already have it mounted but if you have a reason why you just prefer not to have it i would be interested to hear it. it really wont be any more trouble since i need to wire the whole system and dont have all the pieces i need yet anyway

also, at the PRI show i saw some intakes with a gun inside the plenum. that would be a sneaky place for a second weapon for sure

I use a microswitch to activate my timer, and it works fine. Just keep in mind those microswitches are usually low amperage 3 to 5 amps, so you will need to activate a relay with it for any kind of longevity and reliability...

[Pesce Nero]

another question???

use a circuit breaker or no on main power wire to the relays??

[BAD BOB]

i would just to be safe. circuit breaker or inline fuse

[Pesce Nero]

i would just to be safe. circuit breaker or inline fuse

1.circuit breaker and you melt pistons the breaker resets itself and hard to figure out what happened
2.fuse, you know why you just had a melt down.
3.straight wired, you melt the wiring and car catches fire

i'm thinking fuse is best option

[Darryl Buckner]

1.circuit breaker and you melt pistons the breaker resets itself and hard to figure out what happened
2.fuse, you know why you just had a melt down.
3.straight wired, you melt the wiring and car catches fire

i'm thinking fuse is best option

Fact, a fuse will react faster in a bad situation than a breaker. I usually use a breaker in high current applications, like my car has a 150 amp breaker in the trunk by the battery. A 150 amp wafer fuse is about $30.00 for a fuse holder. On my solenoids I have a 30 amp blade fuse powering a 30 amp relay, and those fuses are cheap...:bigthumb:

[wade w]

I have a few questions on the same subject. I got a edelbrock progressive controller because I have heard they were the best for the money. I havent put it on the car yet because I havent gotten a safety solenoid for it yet. How do you guys fell about them? I like the way the one Darrly was talking about works. We have a mallory box. I like it better than the MSD. Do they make something like that that would work with a mallory box and doesnt cost and arm and a leg?