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saclifford 09-26-2014 04:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 98Camarod (Post 254754)
If you have a ls6 intake, then the rears may be blocked off.

I can change the fan settings for you, but doubt that's the problem if it's fine while moving. The fans are normally off when you are moving at highway speeds. Do you have the deflector installed in front? When your moving do the temps come down?

I remember when I first got my car, there was a rubber cap installed on the bottom of the radiator that busted when I was driving down the road. I didn't know anything about it. Maybe you have one and it's slowly leaking coolant?

when I replaced my radiator I also saw a rubber cap on the bottom and I tried to find out what that was used for but haven't been able to find anything. Do you know what is was used for? I just thought it was odd to just have it plugged off like that

schardbody 09-26-2014 07:12 PM

Is it on the passenger side mid ways up? That's where the low coolant sensor goes if so. Not sure if all years had them.

You still haven't answered if it cools off while moving.

Have you done a block test yet?

saclifford 09-26-2014 09:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by schardbody (Post 254776)
Is it on the passenger side mid ways up? That's where the low coolant sensor goes if so. Not sure if all years had them.

You still haven't answered if it cools off while moving.

Have you done a block test yet?

no its on the bottom driver side, with the drain plug on the pass side.

as far as cooling when its moving. The car stays at 210 or so until most of the water is gone then the temp will shot up and the only thing that helps it then is to let it cool down and add more water.

So far everything I have done to the car is as follows

1) Block test= pass
2) compression test on cylinders= 150-160
3) new radiator
4) water pump has been replaced twice
5) t-stat has been replaced twice 160*
6) all hoses have been replaced
7) new overflow tank
8)new temp sending unit
9)switch on fans and replaced relays (fans will come on with a/c and for a
minute or so when the gauge is reading a little of 210)
10) flushed the system filled back with a 50/50 mix
11) new radiator cap (tried a pressure relief and standard style 18# cap)

I have also made sure that anytime work has been done to the system I would bleed it to make sure the air is out of the system. I would let the car run and wait for the t-stat to open and top it back off.

If there is anything someone thinks I have missed or may have done wrong let me know. This is kicking my butt and starting to be expensive

98Camarod 09-26-2014 09:48 PM

I don't know what it was for.

Can you see the coolant dripping? Does it smoke white? Does it overheat at idle or while moving? Do you have coolant on the passenger side floorboard, if so get a new heater core.

saclifford 09-26-2014 10:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 98Camarod (Post 254780)
I don't know what it was for.

Can you see the coolant dripping? Does it smoke white? Does it overheat at idle or while moving? Do you have coolant on the passenger side floorboard, if so get a new heater core.

no coolant dripping. even tried the dye to see if it was going anywhere I couldn't see.

no white smoke at all that I have seen from driving and getting on it or free rev in the yard cant even smell it from the exhaust

driver side floor stays dry.

it will overheat while driving and idle but only when it has lost all of the water which I think its all getting pushed to the overflow and then out of that. Its not getting pulled back in for some reason

Carlrx7 09-27-2014 12:03 PM

Air is stuck in the system.

BigdaddyDupree 09-27-2014 01:30 PM

It's either gotta be air getting in the system but that even generally will work itself out. Have you tried pressure testing the system?

98Camarod 09-27-2014 02:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by saclifford (Post 254781)
no coolant dripping. even tried the dye to see if it was going anywhere I couldn't see.

no white smoke at all that I have seen from driving and getting on it or free rev in the yard cant even smell it from the exhaust

driver side floor stays dry.

it will overheat while driving and idle but only when it has lost all of the water which I think its all getting pushed to the overflow and then out of that. Its not getting pulled back in for some reason

What about the passenger side floor board?

saclifford 09-27-2014 03:47 PM

Im sorry I meant to say the passenger side stays dry


I did pressure test the system. I got the pressure up to about 18psi and let it sit for about a hour and the pressure went up. Probably because it was hot that day, car was cold though sat overnight before I did the test.

BigdaddyDupree 09-27-2014 08:32 PM

Pressure shouldn't go up from sitting I wouldn't think. That's odd

schardbody 09-28-2014 06:18 PM

So how long does it take to start overheating if fulll?

Is it pushing coolant then overheating or overheating causing it to push?

Lower hose could be collapsing aswell.

saclifford 09-28-2014 09:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BigdaddyDupree (Post 254791)
Pressure shouldn't go up from sitting I wouldn't think. That's odd

I thought so to but figured maybe the heat of the day with it sitting in the sun may have done it. That was the only thing I could come up with talking to other people about it.

saclifford 09-28-2014 09:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by schardbody (Post 254799)
So how long does it take to start overheating if fulll?

Is it pushing coolant then overheating or overheating causing it to push?

Lower hose could be collapsing aswell.


That is the million dollar question right there. I cant tell if its pushing the water out causing it to over heat or overheating then pushing the water out. If I leave the car unchecked it will take about aweek of back and forth to work, 40 miles round trip or a trip to Columbia and back to summerville. I have replaced the hoses and have also checked them while the car has been running. Both upper and lower seem pretty firm

saclifford 09-29-2014 02:39 PM

So I am going to throw this out there because I have no idea on whats going on and im just guessing at this point. On f-body cars there is a black air dam that directs air up to the radiator. Mine is in place and looks good. But the front bumper cover also rolls up under the car, almost making like a v shape with the radiator. If half of the front bumper cover is missing under the car does anyone think that might cause not enough of air getting through the radiator?

I hope I explained it well enough. I can try and take a picture and post it if needed

04ctd 09-29-2014 05:43 PM

the lower air dam makes the car a "bottom feeder"

air piles up in front of the air dam (high pressure area)
in front of the radiator

and air is pulled thru and out of the back of the radiator because the area behind the air dam/radiator is a low pressure area.

HTH.


here's the bajillion dollar question: what is that folded under part, doing at speed, with the wind pushing on it? it could be blocking air flow, but hard to say.

saclifford 09-29-2014 09:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 04ctd (Post 254811)
the lower air dam makes the car a "bottom feeder"

air piles up in front of the air dam (high pressure area)
in front of the radiator

and air is pulled thru and out of the back of the radiator because the area behind the air dam/radiator is a low pressure area.

HTH.


here's the bajillion dollar question: what is that folded under part, doing at speed, with the wind pushing on it? it could be blocking air flow, but hard to say.



the whole bumper is supposed to be bolted in place so it doesn't move at all. the part that is still there is bolted up but there is a part missing I was thinking that it might be messing with the air flow. It was a long shot but I had to ask since I'm at a loss on what is going on with this.

Rob M 10-03-2014 12:39 PM

Shawn, here's something worth trying to narrow things down...start the car up, let it idle in the driveway WITH the heat on full blast. This in theory Should allow the car to run a hair cooler (prob not noticeable on the temp gauge but with a fluke/Multi meter etc) I wonder if the block or heads have a blockage that's creating a hot spot somewhere...

saclifford 10-03-2014 11:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rob M (Post 254895)
Shawn, here's something worth trying to narrow things down...start the car up, let it idle in the driveway WITH the heat on full blast. This in theory Should allow the car to run a hair cooler (prob not noticeable on the temp gauge but with a fluke/Multi meter etc) I wonder if the block or heads have a blockage that's creating a hot spot somewhere...

I was thinking the same thing that's why I did a flush and was going to pull the two plugs. One behind the alt. and the other was by the starter. Im not sure if that would tell me if there is a blockage but it was worth a shot. Do you have any other suggestions on how to tell if there is a blockage?

I was talking to someone today and they made the comment that with the head gasket being an multilayer it could have a small leak in between the layers. Does anyone have any thoughts on that or may have experience it there self?

04ctd 10-03-2014 11:28 PM

I have two heat guns, one "pinpoint" with a laser on it,
and the HVAC style, that registers in a general area (no laser)

LMK if you wanna stop by & run them over the system/hoses/heads, IDK?

saclifford 10-04-2014 06:26 AM

[QappreciateE=04ctd;254902]I have two heat guns, one "pinpoint" with a laser on it,
and the HVAC style, that registers in a general area (no laser)

LMK if you wanna stop by & run them over the system/hoses/heads, IDK?[/QUOTE]

I appreciate the offer. Hopefully I will have a day here soon we can do that. Right now I have the car on jack stands from flushing the system again and haven't had much time to work on it because of work. I was hopping to take it for a ride tonight after work or tomorrow if im not working
.


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