Broke and coming out betta
 

Well obviously most know about the motor letting go last Saturday, finally got a chance to get it out today. After hours of unplugging and unhooking things wishing i had a Shawnboy motor she came out without much fight. Still havent gotten down to the issue just yet, but hopefully tomorrow ill update with some carnage photos. Going to take alot or de-greaser to clean everything up as pretty much anything in the engine bay or under the car is covered in oil.

Last time itll sit in the bay for a while.
http://i1085.photobucket.com/albums/...8/SAM_0648.jpg
Came out without much problem, and my home made cart worked great.
http://i1085.photobucket.com/albums/...8/SAM_0649.jpg
http://i1085.photobucket.com/albums/...8/SAM_0651.jpg
Only a small protion of all the crap.
http://i1085.photobucket.com/albums/...8/SAM_0654.jpg
Looking Mighty empty
http://i1085.photobucket.com/albums/...8/SAM_0652.jpg

Anyways i figure ill just use this thread to keep updated pictures of how its going. Hopefully itll be back on the road by the end of feburary.:bigthumb:

GOOD TIME FOR HEADERS

+1 and a wire tuck, manual rack and tubular k member if you dont already have one.



Whos doing your heads if you get new ones?

Sending the heads to MMR for porting/cams/valves/ect. I have Tubular front suspension, just barely got it together before this crap happened. And yes, headers are going to be a must at this point.

Im not saying MMR is bad but Ive heard of a few unhappy customers in the 2V crowd. Have you considered this place?

http://www.cncport.com/

They are in our back yard (s'ville) and have a few happy customers locally.

Ive heard mostly good things with MMR, and the price they offered me to do a complete redo including new cams and springs almost seems like they cant be making anything off the labor. They quoted me 2200 for stage 3 port, my choice of comp/MMR cams, springs, and new valves. The cams run close to 1500 alone so im leaning towards getting it done, even though the heads are fine as far as i can see.

I may give them a call though... ide rather keep it local even if it costs alittle more.

These were the specs given to me after the port would be done.
Stage 3 Port and Polish 343 int/279 EX @ .500 $950.00 As used by Team MMR

cncperformance has a local lightning in the 6's. :)

Thats with some 2v heads too, with some port work these 4v should flow like a motha.:bigthumb:

did i see a fram oil filter

You surely did. Ive always ran Mobil 1 synthetic in the motor since i got it. Never really been that picky/had issues over the filters since i ussually change it every 1500 miles or so. Though, that one is probably stuffed full of shiny metal.

Lol I went from fram to a motorcraft one week later my motor blew up. Hmmmm......

Just my opinion but I would have jason at cnc do them before i sent MMR a dime for their work. They get good parts but the work has mixed reviews

Would it be best to order all the stuff i wanted then take it all to them for assembly and work? Or do you think they can get better prices than me searching. Who do you recommend for the motor machine work Randy?

Jason can get all the head parts you need at cost too.

LOL when I tell ya to go there you blow me off, when randy tells ya you start asking questions. FML

I didnt blow you off, i said i would actually rather take it to them if the price is reasonable. I always try to shop local instead of shipping it halfway across the world. Probably saves me 200 buck in shipping anyways. Ill take all the advice i can get at this point. Ive never had to pull or rebuild any motor, so im pretty much relying on advice to get this done.

Watch out for the Fram filters. They use cardboard end plates to support the ends of the media pleats. Wix, Motorcraft, Purolator, Mobil 1, and K&N oil filters all use metal end plates instead. When I worked for the Ford Dealers, I have cut open some Fram filters after engine failures caused from loss of oil pressure. I discovered the pleats had separated from an end plate which lets the media pack up in one end of the filter and stop all oil flow. The bypass valve in the filter won't help maintain oil flow when it is covered up with pleat media.

you'll find he'll beat mmrs price.

Good to know, ive never even considered any harm could be done by choosing a brand. I ussually dont do my own oil changes but ill be sure to require a different filter from now on.

Was giving you a hard time. IIRC you can mention lightningrodder.com and get a discount. :cheers

As for the machine work. Myself and other local mod motor owners have had good luck with simmons.

Trans looks good, but the clutch is super rusty looking. Probably a good time to swap it out also since i think its stock still.

Edit: went and wrote the numbers down. Stock Valeo clutch and numbers with the ford stamp on it. Not sure how its lasted this long.

you need to put an LS motor in it really....

granny shiftin roll racer... :poke:

http://www.zorly.com/images_corvette...8%20engine.jpg

Vs.

http://brakebanzeen.files.wordpress....500-engine.jpg

:mrgreen:

:wak:

I want the thing to go fast, which is why it will NOT be a LS motor.

I'm not sure what your price range is. Have you considered an aluminator? Should shave off a bit from the front end. Aluminator + ported eaton makes for a very fun street car, especially in one that ways so little as yours.

As long as the block isnt too badly mangled ill be keeping everything i can to save cash. Most likely ill be putting most of the money into the heads/cams/headers this time. Best case scenario is im able to bore it over alittle and only need to refresh the motor with seals/bearings and a new set of pistons.

another vote for CNCPORT, and against FRAM filters.

stay away from K&N oil filters aswell.

MMR does pretty good work and are put on a pedestal online but thats because of their activity on the forums, but nothing beats meeting the person who will be doing your work and putting money back in our community....

their customer service was excellent!!! Jason delivered my heads to me on a Saturday helping me get started on my build. CNC will get my business again!

sorry to hear about your motor:(

cnc all the way.. they do private label porting for big companies.. i wouldn't be surprised if mmr sends cnc port their heads to be done. once the program is written its an easy process.

glad to see you have a plan to make it a bit better for the next round. look forward to seeing progress and up and running in feb/march

Jason at CNC Port gets my business as well. My Trickflow R heads were literally rectangular blocks, and he cut everything in my heads, exhaust runners, intake runners, combustion chamber, ect. And he can get everything youll need. He does an ass of private label stuff, I have seen a pallet of Edelbrock Victor heads there getting done..

Finnally got all the tools i needed and thanks to some help from Matt(02_L#416) she came apart. Found the driver side 2nd from the back piston and ring are toasted. Everything else doesnt look too bad, but i havent gotten a chance to get too deep yet. Heads got some molten piston and ring stuck to them, but other than that i think they are ok and can be easily fixed with the port. The cylinder doesnt look bad, but obviously will need some work.

http://i1085.photobucket.com/albums/...8/SAM_0669.jpg
http://i1085.photobucket.com/albums/...8/SAM_0666.jpg
http://i1085.photobucket.com/albums/...8/SAM_0667.jpg
http://i1085.photobucket.com/albums/...8/SAM_0671.jpg
http://i1085.photobucket.com/albums/...8/SAM_0672.jpg
http://i1085.photobucket.com/albums/...8/SAM_0673.jpg

That's not shit. You could fix that for cheap. Wait until I come back from the February ORTC race and I will show you some real destruction. I'm going down there loaded for bear!

On a serious note- Proline is the best in the business. You might want to consider giving them a call. You might be suprised at the cost, not as bad as you might think. I am going to be going back to Atlanta in a couple of weeks too, so I would even take it down there for you if it would help you out.

I agree, i think considering what could have went down i got lucky. Starting from the night when oil could have cause the car to lose control to now finding its not as bad as i was thinking. But anyways, a new set of pistons, some head work and itll be better than new!

I would send those injectors out and have them checked and cleaned while you're down. Wouldn't want a weak injector cause a fresh motor to frag itself. Even "new" injectors have been found to be off, flow wise. The SD injectors, for example, have shown to have inconsitent flow from set to set.

+1 Send them here to get them cleaned, flow matched and hogged out so you can run some E85.

http://fuelinjectorconnection.com/shop/

Block damage ?
 

dident know if it hurt the block