Battery Relocation
 

OK so in a rush I did not think to check what gauge cables came with the Steeda battery relocation kit. It comes with 4ga, and I am wondering if they will be alright to run for a while or if I should I go ahead and order a tray kit to get the 1 gauge wire and just do it once.

You might be able to call some welding supply shops around town and get some cable today instead of ordering something else.

A good place to try would be National Welder.

PRO PAC is another good place to get the welding cable.

I got 0ga wire from HURRiCANE ELECTRONICS (summerville radioshack near 26) for about $4 a foot and relocated mine. I got 20 feet and that was more than enough. (s-10)

But I ran 4 ga in my mustang and at that time it was more than enough. Remember (I know stupid to say this) but the ground should be the same size or bigger than positive side.

I went ahead and had 2ga sent to Brian, I should be out of Iraq in 2 weeks or so and can work on the shut off switch. Probably going to take the tumbler out of my trunk lock and have a removeable rod go through to the switch

You'll be fine with 2GA.

Wonder what the weight difference between 1ga and 2ga would be?? The battery switch rule sucks though

I just left mine in the factory location. That way I don't need a switch.



Paul

I'm moving mine to the bed and won't be installing a switch. The track I go to doesn't inforce that rule. Besides, I don't see the difference. If the battery is up front or in the bed, it's still hooked up the same way. There's just a longer cable that goes to it.

My dad runs a welding store here in charleston called tri tech...i'll call and see what he'll let it go for to friends :)

Update: Your looking at $2.05 a foot for 2g wire, just tell them your friends with me :)

Their number is 745-4111 and ask for Jeff or Tim Sr.

HMMM, see how much he will let a plasma cutter drop off a truck for. :cheers

If you can get a "deal" I will be seeing him soon. Need more odds and end stuff in the garage.

that would have been nice, but if I wanna run an air filter to the trunk it goes

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l4...urbo2/pic1.jpg

With all that going on under the hood, I would definately move the battery to the rear. Generally the reason for moving the battery is either you are out of room in the front, or you need weight shifted in a vehicle. Typically when you move the battery to the trunk you want it on the torque side of the vehicle. For my car that was on the passenger side in the trunk. For me I shifted about 50plus lbs, from the front to the rear. That helped to plant the rear tires, by not only putting weight bias over top of them, but also allowing the front end to come up better, due to less weight being there. Also be careful with welding cables, as battery cables. If you use the welding cables get the ones with fine copper strands, the cables with really stiff thick strands, has alot more current drop across them, and you want all the current getting to the starter as possible. And Hal is correct, you want the ground the same size as the starter cable.

You also can't have too many grounds.