[SWThomas]

Below is an illustration of how I extended the positive wire from the solenoid. This is also how I soldered all of the connections for this install. First I slid some heat-shrink onto the wire...


Then I stripped the insulation off both ends that were to be connected and wrapped them around each other...


Then I placed the tip of my soldering iron on the twist and squeezed the trigger to allow the wire to get nice and hot before applying solder...


Then I applied some rosin core solder. You know a good soldering connection is made when the solder wicks itself into the wires...




Then I slid the heat-shrink over the connection and applied heat with a lighter...


And here is the end result...


Next I put some black split loom on the positive wire and wrapped some electrical tape around one end. I purchased the split loom and the tape from NAPA...




Then I pushed it up all the way to the solenoid...


Then I ran the wire along some existing wires and tie wrapped it to them. I could have run this wire through the grommet in the firewall where the boost line comes through. But that grommet was already full with all my nitrous system wires. So I decided to enter the cab through one of the grommets in the floor pan right enderneath where your feet go...


I opened the drivers side door and removed the panel pictured. Just pull on it and it will snap loose. Then I lifted the carpet which allowed me access to the top of the grommet I was using...






Then I ran the wire through the grommet. Don't mind the wire that's already going through it. That goes to something else. Just make a hole in the grommet with a screwdriver and run the wire through...


I intersected the wire with the split loom that was already going through and used electrical tape to seal them together. This grommet is pretty soft and the split loom can be pulled through very easily...




Next I had to find a suitable location to mount the switch. I looked all aver and it took me a good hour to decide on a location. I decided to mount it in the sunglasses holder in the overhead console. This may be a little much for some people so if you decided to mount your switch in a different location the wiring will still be the same. I had to remove the console which was very easy. There is a phillips head screw in the very front that needs to be removed and then just pull on the console and it will snap loose. There is a connector that needs to be disconnected that supplies power to the console display. After that, I just set the console aside. I had to get the solenoid wire, power wire, and switch ground wire over to the console from the pillar but didn't want to remove the headliner or the visor. So I just fed some of my soldering wire from the opening in the console over to the pillar...




Then I wrapped the soldering wire around the 3 wires and pulled them through...




At this time I went ahead and installed the connectors that would allow me to connect the wires to the switch. I removed the insulation on the connectors because I was going to solder them and add heat-shrink tubing...




Next I used a Unibit to drill the hole for the switch. I purchased my Unibit from Grayco Hardware and it drills holes from 1/8" to 1/2"...




Then I attached the wires. The top wire is the ground for the switch itself. The center wire goes to the line lock solenoid and the bottom wire goes to the power source...


I ran all three wires from the headliner, down the pillar post, behind the weather stripping in the corner of the dash and down to the bottom of the dash. The pillar pod removal is not pictured but it is very easy to do. If you have a gauge pod where your stock pillar pod use to be then you know how to remove it. If not, just remove the caps on the handle and remove the two nuts. Then the handle and the pillar pod can be removed.Here are some pics...








Next I ran the ground wire to it's new home. I used a ground bolt behind the kick-panel for this location. The kick-panel is easily removed by just pulling on it. Once again I removed the insulation from a circular connector and soldered the ground wire to it. I also applied heat-shrink tubing...




Next I had to find a power supply. Most of my keyed-on power sources were being used for other accessories so I decided to use fuse #1 which is the power supply for the audio system. It has constant power but no power will go to the line lock unless the switch is flipped. And that's the main reason I mounted it where I did. So noone could see it and get the "I wonder what that does" idea and so I wouldn't accidentally flip it. I used the Add-a-Fuse I purchased from Advanced Auto to tap into this power source. The Add-a-Fuse comes with instructions but installing it is very easy. Just remove the fuse you want to tap into. put that fuse in the lower slot on the A-A-F and put a new fuse in the top slot. I used a 5 AMP fuse for the line lock. As with all my connections I soldered the power wire coming from the switch to the wire on the A-A-F...






That's pretty much it. Re-install everything in reverse order. I did run into a little snag when re-installing the overhead console. The connector that connects the display was right where the backside of my new switch was. The female connector is mounted to the console and can be moved by pushing down on the little tap on the left side and sliding the connector to the left. After that I reconnected the male and female connectors and just moved it out of the way. It may rattle a little but I'll correct that if it happens...




Then I out the console back on and here's how it looked...


I went out and tested it after I cleaned everything up. It worked great and the cloud of smoke I left in front of my apartment agreed with me. I'm not sure exactly how much it would cost to install this kit the way I did because of the tools involved. But the Hurst Line Lock Solenoid is $111.95 and the Summit Line Lock Installation Kit is $26.95. That should give you some idea. Hurst also sells an installation kit for $27.88 but it doesn't come with all the stuff the Summit kit has.

If there is something important that I missed, please add it to this thread. If anyone has any questions about this install or anything else, please PM me and I'll be glad to help in any way I can.