Another option is to go with an AOD-E which has a 12 volt powered computer controled lockup via a clutch plate in the converter. You can manually control lockup yourself via a user selectable switch. This way you can run any stall converter you want and enjoy bypassing the flash while cruising the highway. One thing to keep in mind is that a stall converter typically has a smaller diameter, so a lockup clutch disc has to shrink in size, too, to be able to fit inside. Be carefull of the amount of power you try to send through a single disc.
If you really want to get sick with it, get a multiplate lockup converter and you will be able to hold WOT power in lockup for a time improvement in your 1/4 mile times. You don't really need torque multiplication in the top half of 3rd gear anyway, so you might as well send all your power to the ground. Too bad these multiplate converters cost $1000+ and they are heavy, too. If you are only concerned with 1/8 mile, don't waste your money on a multiplate.
In contrast, the lockup function in a regular AOD is purely mechanical in nature facillitated by the split shaft power delivery it has. The long skinny shaft goes directly to the lockup damper attached to the front cover of the converter and carries 90% of the power in 3rd, and all the power in OD. In a non-lockup AOD converter, there is no lockup damper and the skinny shaft power comes from the turbine in the converter, which always drives the hollow shaft in either style converter. Of course, for the ultimate in AOD strength, a one piece input shaft is required and it negates the lockup function even in a lockup AOD converter.
Have you been thrown enough curve balls yet?
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