who knows about a 63 galaxie? or brakes on old fords?

dkbmxer002 · 08-25-2009, 10:23 PM

so i have a third car/project that i bought from a friend. i have had it for a while but i am just finally getting around to it. the car runs fine for the most part but the brakes barely work and the brake lights won't work either. anyone know anything about these?

it is a 63 galaxie with the 352 big block, the car doesn't make a lick of power but it is gonna be a fun cruiser once it gets fixed up. i am having an issue with the carb and the brakes...

BAD BOB · 08-25-2009, 10:35 PM

working on a 66 ltd now for brakes. it really depends on the problem as far as no brakes. check fluid, if its there but no pedal and no leaks then its prolly a naster cylinder, if no fluid there may be a leak at the mastercylinder, lines or wheel cylinders.

the one i working on has bad rear wheel cylinders from sitting a long time. The brake lights may not work bc of a possible stop light switch on the pedal or a pressure like switch on the mastercylinder or the lines

dkbmxer002 · 08-25-2009, 10:40 PM

it had no fluid in the master slave so i added some, but i don't know how to bleed it with all 4 being drumb. it has two plugs right after the master cylinder so i was thinking it might be pressure sensitive. did old fords have that? where if the fluid was low the lights wouldnt work..?

gearmesh, inc. · 08-25-2009, 10:48 PM

On something that old, change out all the rubber brake hoses to start with. Age has the effect of internally swelling the ID of the rubber hoses just about shut.

dkbmxer002 · 08-25-2009, 10:54 PM

i don't think it has any honestly.

Mustangscotty · 08-25-2009, 11:45 PM

Inspect the rubber lines leading to each drum under the car for signs of leakage. That fluid had to go somewhere!

If the lines check out ok, pull each wheel and look at the wheel cylinders located inside each drum. Inspect the seals on each side of the cylinder for leaks.

No leaks, then bleed' em..

If your going to get your hands dirty with this one, make a wise investment in a factory shop manual !!http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/rafr...1334843k998303

These guys did me right when replacing all the fuel and brake lines in my car. http://www.finelinesinc.com/

Electrical: As with all classic cars, check the ground wires and bulbs in the trunk.

Cool ride.. Last one I saw was black on black/white with blacked out wheels and white letter tires. Took on a Trans Am racer look of the day.

BAD BOB · 08-26-2009, 07:59 AM

to bleed them just start from the right rear (furthest from master cylinder) and work to the LR, then RF, then LF. if there is no fluid in the master cylinder then it will take a good many times to make sure all the air is out. do one wheel till its straight fluid then move to the next. if you dont get any fluid pressure to the rear or one of the front wheels it prolly has a rubber line closed down

08-25-2009, 10:23 PM	#1
dkbmxer002 Moderator Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: orlando/charleston/savannah/D.C. Posts: 2,265	who knows about a 63 galaxie? or brakes on old fords? so i have a third car/project that i bought from a friend. i have had it for a while but i am just finally getting around to it. the car runs fine for the most part but the brakes barely work and the brake lights won't work either. anyone know anything about these? it is a 63 galaxie with the 352 big block, the car doesn't make a lick of power but it is gonna be a fun cruiser once it gets fixed up. i am having an issue with the carb and the brakes... __________________ white 90's ls single cam nitrous hatchback

08-25-2009, 10:35 PM	#2
BAD BOB Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: SUMMERVILLE Posts: 3,681	working on a 66 ltd now for brakes. it really depends on the problem as far as no brakes. check fluid, if its there but no pedal and no leaks then its prolly a naster cylinder, if no fluid there may be a leak at the mastercylinder, lines or wheel cylinders. the one i working on has bad rear wheel cylinders from sitting a long time. The brake lights may not work bc of a possible stop light switch on the pedal or a pressure like switch on the mastercylinder or the lines __________________ IM BAD BOB

08-25-2009, 10:40 PM	#3
dkbmxer002 Moderator Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: orlando/charleston/savannah/D.C. Posts: 2,265	it had no fluid in the master slave so i added some, but i don't know how to bleed it with all 4 being drumb. it has two plugs right after the master cylinder so i was thinking it might be pressure sensitive. did old fords have that? where if the fluid was low the lights wouldnt work..? __________________ white 90's ls single cam nitrous hatchback

08-25-2009, 10:54 PM	#5
dkbmxer002 Moderator Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: orlando/charleston/savannah/D.C. Posts: 2,265	i don't think it has any honestly. __________________ white 90's ls single cam nitrous hatchback

08-25-2009, 11:45 PM	#6
Mustangscotty Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 699	Inspect the rubber lines leading to each drum under the car for signs of leakage. That fluid had to go somewhere! If the lines check out ok, pull each wheel and look at the wheel cylinders located inside each drum. Inspect the seals on each side of the cylinder for leaks. No leaks, then bleed' em.. If your going to get your hands dirty with this one, make a wise investment in a factory shop manual !!http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/rafr...1334843k998303 These guys did me right when replacing all the fuel and brake lines in my car. http://www.finelinesinc.com/ Electrical: As with all classic cars, check the ground wires and bulbs in the trunk. Cool ride.. Last one I saw was black on black/white with blacked out wheels and white letter tires. Took on a Trans Am racer look of the day. __________________ Scotty 67 Mustang fastback 68 Mustang coupe 03 Cobra 13 F150 4x4 69 Harley FLH 67 Camaro Last edited by Mustangscotty; 08-25-2009 at 11:55 PM.

08-25-2009, 10:48 PM	#4
gearmesh, inc. creepy azz cracka Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Summerville Posts: 1,587	On something that old, change out all the rubber brake hoses to start with. Age has the effect of internally swelling the ID of the rubber hoses just about shut.

08-26-2009, 07:59 AM	#7
BAD BOB Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: SUMMERVILLE Posts: 3,681	to bleed them just start from the right rear (furthest from master cylinder) and work to the LR, then RF, then LF. if there is no fluid in the master cylinder then it will take a good many times to make sure all the air is out. do one wheel till its straight fluid then move to the next. if you dont get any fluid pressure to the rear or one of the front wheels it prolly has a rubber line closed down __________________ IM BAD BOB