Back up and running again!!

05Saleen · 09-12-2007, 02:57 PM

Truck is back up and running again.

Whaler · 09-12-2007, 02:59 PM

What did you put in for an engine? Stock? Built?

Mike · 09-12-2007, 02:59 PM

You going to Beaufort?

chrisheltra · 09-12-2007, 03:00 PM

That was quick. Bring it down to Beaufort with the rest of us if you dont plan on it already.

05Saleen · 09-12-2007, 03:00 PM

Reman from ford.......Completely stock and that is the way it is going to stay!!!! Except for nitrous

05Saleen · 09-12-2007, 03:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike Corrigan

You going to Beaufort?

Not sure yet supposed to be going to Charlotte.

05Saleen · 09-12-2007, 03:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chrisheltra

That was quick. Bring it down to Beaufort with the rest of us if you dont plan on it already.

Considering I did it all my self and didn't have to wait on anybody. I am tired though. Come to find out my oil pump shaft wasn't twisted in two and the cam gears are fine.....

I am going to still take the cam out and figure out why it is eating dist. gears...... Who know's. Thank You Ford for your Diagnosis..

clubracergt1 · 09-12-2007, 05:37 PM

My money says that either the wrong cam gear was installed, and/or the thrust plate was left off when the cam was swapped allowing it to walk.

wsa111 · 09-12-2007, 07:29 PM

Morey, the six cylinder ford motors also have this problem. Working for a fix for them.
Looking at performance distributors web site i found this lubrication mod for the small block fords. If it helps great, Bill
[quote]Topic 2: Excessive Distributor Gear Wear on Ford
Excessive distributor gear wear can be a problem with Ford engines. Most of the time, the problem is a result from the use of a high volume oil pump. High volume oil pumps put a lot of stress on the distributor and cam gears. A high volume oil pump is not necessary on a street driven engine that turns no more than 7000 rpms. Only extreme racing engines require the high volume pump. Should you use this type of oil pump, the following precautions will save your distributor gear from early destruction.

(1) Drill a .030" hole in the lifter/oil galley plug behind the distributor. This will allow additional lubrication on the distributor and cam gears. This will not lower oil pressure enough to hurt the engine.

(2) Ford oil pump mounting brackets have elongated holes. Due to this, the distributor shaft and oil pump shaft should be aligned so that the distributor turns freely before tightening the mounting bracket bolts. Failure to do this will cause a binding situation, thus damaging the gear.

(3) Stock Ford hex oil pump drive shafts are know to vary in length which could cause a bottoming or binding situation.

(4) Brass distributor gears can be used to avoid damaging the cam gear. Brass gears are softer and can wear out quicker than the cast gear, but will not cause damage to the cam gear. If using a brass gear, check it occasionally for wear.

clubracergt1 · 09-12-2007, 07:55 PM

I guess I really do learn something new everyday. No B.S.

perm102 · 09-12-2007, 08:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 05Saleen

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike Corrigan

You going to Beaufort?

Not sure yet supposed to be going to Charlotte.

Good to hear that it is running. Are you going to Lowe's Motor SW for the big swap meet thing?

05Saleen · 09-12-2007, 08:41 PM

Thank you Bill. I will look into that. Something definately is going wrong somewhere.

wsa111 · 09-18-2007, 08:59 PM

Morey, just thought i would copy & paste the following from the ford muscle forum. Bill

Quote:

Have you tried to do the oiling trick? If you want to id recommed like was mentioned. Angle the hole down toward the gear mesh. Id use a threaded plug so that its thick enough to give it some direction. Use a dremel at the lowest speed so that you drill fast enough and not pushing hard like you will tend to do with a hand drill. Besides .03 or 1/32 drill is really hard to clamp on as it is.

Also, is it a HV HP pump? Or just HV? What oil are you running? Is it a high in zinc Racing oil like Valvoline Racing ,or Mobil 1 ,Royal purple, or just an average 10w30 etc.
Being that its an extreemly high load area much like a lifter face/cam lobe area, id think that its a good idea to use a high zinc conventinal style oil till the "break in" is achieved. As well as a good moly assy lube on the gear mesh when installing. I cant say that this is a must as im sure that there may have been many here that never had a prob just with just oil on break in. Im just erroring on the side of saftey.

One thing that comes to mind. Is there any rotational play when the cam is installed? Or does it feel tight with no play? If so maybe the gear mesh is to tight. Or maybe the opposite , Too loose?
One last thing, What is the clearance when the cam is out. I think that you need around .015" minimum clearance "up and down". If its smooth feeling when cold Things may bind up when hot if its too close to start with.

Im just throwing things out there for you to try or think about

05Saleen · 09-18-2007, 09:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wsa111

Morey, just thought i would copy & paste the following from the ford muscle forum. Bill

Quote:

Have you tried to do the oiling trick? If you want to id recommed like was mentioned. Angle the hole down toward the gear mesh. Id use a threaded plug so that its thick enough to give it some direction. Use a dremel at the lowest speed so that you drill fast enough and not pushing hard like you will tend to do with a hand drill. Besides .03 or 1/32 drill is really hard to clamp on as it is.

Also, is it a HV HP pump? Or just HV? What oil are you running? Is it a high in zinc Racing oil like Valvoline Racing ,or Mobil 1 ,Royal purple, or just an average 10w30 etc.
Being that its an extreemly high load area much like a lifter face/cam lobe area, id think that its a good idea to use a high zinc conventinal style oil till the "break in" is achieved. As well as a good moly assy lube on the gear mesh when installing. I cant say that this is a must as im sure that there may have been many here that never had a prob just with just oil on break in. Im just erroring on the side of saftey.

One thing that comes to mind. Is there any rotational play when the cam is installed? Or does it feel tight with no play? If so maybe the gear mesh is to tight. Or maybe the opposite , Too loose?
One last thing, What is the clearance when the cam is out. I think that you need around .015" minimum clearance "up and down". If its smooth feeling when cold Things may bind up when hot if its too close to start with.

Im just throwing things out there for you to try or think about

Thanks Bill. Good info.

wsa111 · 09-20-2007, 10:02 PM

Morey, i was up at S&R machine & looked at a 302 block.
The plug they talk about is located at the front of the left bank lifter galley & can only be accessed with the timing gear off the engine.
Sounds like this is a mod you do when the engine block is close to bare block status.
The plug is a cupped plug, which would require tapping the orifice & installing the proper allen plug.
Sounds like a great deal if you do it from the beginning.
My six cylinder deal is a challenge. God bless oil additives, Bill

09-12-2007, 02:57 PM	#1
05Saleen Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Goose Creek, SC Posts: 3,159	Back up and running again!! Truck is back up and running again. __________________ 05 Saleen, 91 Mustang LX, 99 Lightning

09-12-2007, 03:00 PM	#4
chrisheltra Neo is Jesus Join Date: Jan 2007 Posts: 13,265	That was quick. Bring it down to Beaufort with the rest of us if you dont plan on it already. __________________ Gap A Hoe Racing

09-12-2007, 03:00 PM	#5
05Saleen Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Goose Creek, SC Posts: 3,159	Reman from ford.......Completely stock and that is the way it is going to stay!!!! Except for nitrous __________________ 05 Saleen, 91 Mustang LX, 99 Lightning

09-12-2007, 05:37 PM	#8
clubracergt1 Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: The Great, white North (Chicagoland) Posts: 2,483	My money says that either the wrong cam gear was installed, and/or the thrust plate was left off when the cam was swapped allowing it to walk. __________________ This space for rent

09-12-2007, 07:29 PM	#9
wsa111 Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: goose creek, sc Posts: 121	Ford Distributor Gear Wear Morey, the six cylinder ford motors also have this problem. Working for a fix for them. Looking at performance distributors web site i found this lubrication mod for the small block fords. If it helps great, Bill [quote]Topic 2: Excessive Distributor Gear Wear on Ford Excessive distributor gear wear can be a problem with Ford engines. Most of the time, the problem is a result from the use of a high volume oil pump. High volume oil pumps put a lot of stress on the distributor and cam gears. A high volume oil pump is not necessary on a street driven engine that turns no more than 7000 rpms. Only extreme racing engines require the high volume pump. Should you use this type of oil pump, the following precautions will save your distributor gear from early destruction. (1) Drill a .030" hole in the lifter/oil galley plug behind the distributor. This will allow additional lubrication on the distributor and cam gears. This will not lower oil pressure enough to hurt the engine. (2) Ford oil pump mounting brackets have elongated holes. Due to this, the distributor shaft and oil pump shaft should be aligned so that the distributor turns freely before tightening the mounting bracket bolts. Failure to do this will cause a binding situation, thus damaging the gear. (3) Stock Ford hex oil pump drive shafts are know to vary in length which could cause a bottoming or binding situation. (4) Brass distributor gears can be used to avoid damaging the cam gear. Brass gears are softer and can wear out quicker than the cast gear, but will not cause damage to the cam gear. If using a brass gear, check it occasionally for wear. __________________ 2003 ford lightning 1967 ford mustang

09-12-2007, 02:59 PM	#2
Whaler Moderator Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: West Ashley Posts: 2,498	What did you put in for an engine? Stock? Built?

09-12-2007, 02:59 PM	#3
Mike Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Goose Creek, SC Posts: 5,481	You going to Beaufort?

09-12-2007, 07:55 PM	#10
clubracergt1 Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: The Great, white North (Chicagoland) Posts: 2,483	I guess I really do learn something new everyday. No B.S. __________________ This space for rent

09-12-2007, 08:41 PM	#12
05Saleen Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Goose Creek, SC Posts: 3,159	Thank you Bill. I will look into that. Something definately is going wrong somewhere. __________________ 05 Saleen, 91 Mustang LX, 99 Lightning

09-20-2007, 10:02 PM	#15
wsa111 Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: goose creek, sc Posts: 121	the location of the plug to drill Morey, i was up at S&R machine & looked at a 302 block. The plug they talk about is located at the front of the left bank lifter galley & can only be accessed with the timing gear off the engine. Sounds like this is a mod you do when the engine block is close to bare block status. The plug is a cupped plug, which would require tapping the orifice & installing the proper allen plug. Sounds like a great deal if you do it from the beginning. My six cylinder deal is a challenge. God bless oil additives, Bill __________________ 2003 ford lightning 1967 ford mustang