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#1 |
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Moderator
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4:00pm firday afternoon 10/31/08
![]() ![]() 7:00AM this morning UH OH BISHES ![]()
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#2 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Goose Creek, SC
Posts: 5,481
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Looks good! Good Luck with the build.
Those pictures are huge, What do you have a 30" monitor?
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#3 |
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Moderator
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there I resized for the 1024x768 guys
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#4 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Goose Creek
Posts: 892
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Looks good.
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#5 |
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Moderator
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In case anyone wants to know, this thread was a tremendous help http://www.f150online.com/forums/lig...ly-photos.html
I think somehow it should be over here, it leaves out some things like ARP head torque specs, ring gaps ( I had mine done for each specific cyl), gap locations , plastiguage for the bottom end and what the crank endplay tolerances should be set at. I also clayed my pistions and timed the motor with old head gaskets to ensure I had the proper valve to piston clearence . But with the correct research, that information should be easily obtained for any individuals specific application. And last but not least I'd like to thank Lightningrodder.com http://www.lightningrodder.com/forum...read.php?t=225 for the shop manual exerts in the How- To Section Oh ya, and if you notice in some of those pictures he obviously has the "Special Ford" tools, well Ill put a big exnay on that crap, about the only ford tool you really need is the valve spring compresser for the heads (for 100 smackers) timing the cams was easier than torqueing head studs, all you need is 4 extra bolts to go on the cam gear holes. You can even use em for degreeing the cams. Last edited by DolSVT00; 11-01-2008 at 09:02 PM. Reason: technical stuff |
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#6 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Myrtle Beach
Posts: 2,347
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Woohoo Sock feet engine build FTW! hahaha just kiddin. Pics look good. Any major head work?
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