Need to pick everyones brains about the Detroit TT install again.

chrisheltra · 01-30-2009, 06:50 PM

Im trying to install the TT and I got it in and now Im trying to get the stock shims back in, They are proving to be a pain in the ass. I tried installing them but the manual says I need a special tool to get them in. Well I dont have that special too so this is starting to get hard. I have a feeling this would be a lot easier if I had it.

Can I install the TT then put the shims in or are the holes for the shims recessed making it to where I need to put the shims in first?

Mike · 01-30-2009, 06:54 PM

I think I put the shims and tt in at the same time. I had to beat it in, because it's a tight squeeze.

Mitch has swapped at least 5 of these, so he would be the best to answer. Try giving him a call.

chrisheltra · 01-30-2009, 08:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike

I think I put the shims and tt in at the same time. I had to beat it in, because it's a tight squeeze.

Mitch has swapped at least 5 of these, so he would be the best to answer. Try giving him a call.

I called him and he gave me some good pointers.

Im reusing the stock shims and I can get one side in all the way. Then I try to get the other side and it only goes in half way and then completely stops. It looks as though its not going in completely straight and thats probably causing my problems.

WTFWSAT · 01-30-2009, 11:30 PM

One thing to check is to make sure your carrier bearings are seated all the way down. If you are using the same shims it Should go right back in but depending on tolerances you have have to slightly adjust. I may get scolded for saying this but you could lightly tap the shim if it doesnt want to go dont force it too far.

I know that mofo is heavy but sliding the whole thing in at once would be best.

just my .02

Chris

chrisheltra · 01-30-2009, 11:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WTFWSAT

One thing to check is to make sure your carrier bearings are seated all the way down. If you are using the same shims it Should go right back in but depending on tolerances you have have to slightly adjust. I may get scolded for saying this but you could lightly tap the shim if it doesnt want to go dont force it too far.

I know that mofo is heavy but sliding the whole thing in at once would be best.

just my .02

Chris

Thanks for the info. At first the bearings didnt look like they were seated all the way compared to the stock diff and bearings. I fixed that problem but the shims still wont go in. It could be that the shims are too thick because the TT is just a tad bit wider than the stocker. Will find out tomorrow.

Bradleyrj · 01-31-2009, 12:55 AM

I always try to put one shim on each side in first..

chrisheltra · 01-31-2009, 01:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bradleyrj

I always try to put one shim on each side in first..

Did that I got one in all the way and one in about 75% but it just stopped and wont go anymore.

chrisheltra · 01-31-2009, 03:24 PM

Well Mitch got it in. It just so happens that I didnt have the right tools for the job.

Thanks Mitch!

slow04 · 01-31-2009, 03:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chrisheltra

Well Mitch got it in. It just so happens that I didnt have the right tools for the job.

Thanks Mitch!

He's good on rearends.....'specially Korean made ones

chrisheltra · 01-31-2009, 07:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by slow04

He's good on rearends.....'specially Korean made ones

You know Ive heard that about him but I dont remember from who.

gearmesh, inc. · 01-31-2009, 10:33 PM

Most of the aftermarket differentials I have installed never seem to be able to use the same shims that had the backlash correct on the previous differential. Even if the original shims were to fit with the new differential, my backlash would be way out and the gear contact patterns showed the expected shift in contact. Bad pattern = noisey gears.

If you don't have access to any factory diff shims, Ratech makes an install kit for most rearend models out there that comes with bearings, shims, seals, etc. The diff shims in the kit are designed to be stackable. To make things easy, grab your calipers or 0-1" mic and measure and label the shims in the kit according to thickness. This will save you gobs of time when you are switching shims back and forth to get backlash in spec. In this diff shim assortment, you will find 4 of the shims to be .100". These thick shims are meant to sandwich a combination of thin shims between them to stack up to your desired thickness to go behind each diff bearing cup.

What I do first is to come up with a shim thickness on each side to where I get an easy but snug fit of sliding the diff assy between them. Check backlash and make adjustments by removing x-amount of thickness from one stack and adding the same x-amount to the other side to keep your snug fit. Good thing about most aftermarket gear sets, the desired backlash dimension is usually scribed onto the OD of the ring gear somewhere. Once you are satisfied with your backlash dimension, do a gear pattern check. You may have to do some tweaking on your pinion depth shim and/or backlash setting to get a good pattern. Most of the time if you go by the dimensions scribed on the gearset, you won't have much adjusting to do, if at all. Then add .004" of thickness to each side to put some preload on your fresh diff bearings and reinstall for good.

Where a headscratcher comes in is if you have a lot of bracing welded to your housing. The distortion from welding tends to disturb the original pinion centerline to diff centerline relationship. If you rely solely on the numbers scribed on your new gearset without doing a pattern check, you usually end up with noisey gears. When dealing with a reinforced housing, the right numbers are touch and go depending on what you get for a contact pattern. Sometimes you will assmeble and reassemble the damn thing 8-10 times in your search to get a good pattern. At least a good pattern = quiet gears.

You 9" guys are lucky, you can reinforce your housing all you want and your gears never move due to the removeable hoghead design. Why Ford quit making the 9" is beyond me.

Richard Head · 01-31-2009, 11:24 PM

Why Ford quit making the 9" is beyond me.[/QUOTE]

I ask myself the same question all the time.

chrisheltra · 02-03-2009, 08:31 PM

Woohoo just got it all buttoned up tonight. That TA girdle is a quality piece.

Now before I start it is there anything special about the front brakes that I need to know about?

clubracergt1 · 02-03-2009, 10:07 PM

They handle about 60% of your stopping?

j/k-Anything specific you need to know?

01-30-2009, 06:50 PM	#1
chrisheltra Neo is Jesus Join Date: Jan 2007 Posts: 13,265	Need to pick everyones brains about the Detroit TT install again. Im trying to install the TT and I got it in and now Im trying to get the stock shims back in, They are proving to be a pain in the ass. I tried installing them but the manual says I need a special tool to get them in. Well I dont have that special too so this is starting to get hard. I have a feeling this would be a lot easier if I had it. Can I install the TT then put the shims in or are the holes for the shims recessed making it to where I need to put the shims in first? __________________ Gap A Hoe Racing

01-30-2009, 11:30 PM	#4
WTFWSAT Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Summerville Posts: 861	One thing to check is to make sure your carrier bearings are seated all the way down. If you are using the same shims it Should go right back in but depending on tolerances you have have to slightly adjust. I may get scolded for saying this but you could lightly tap the shim if it doesnt want to go dont force it too far. I know that mofo is heavy but sliding the whole thing in at once would be best. just my .02 Chris __________________ Fastest stock computer 5.0 on the planet! Looking for cheeep msd 6al! PM me! 88 Coupe (turtle) 03 Cobra (tortoise)

01-31-2009, 12:55 AM	#6
Bradleyrj Senior Member Join Date: May 2008 Location: Myrtle Beach Posts: 2,347	I always try to put one shim on each side in first.. __________________

01-31-2009, 03:24 PM	#8
chrisheltra Neo is Jesus Join Date: Jan 2007 Posts: 13,265	Well Mitch got it in. It just so happens that I didnt have the right tools for the job. Thanks Mitch! __________________ Gap A Hoe Racing

01-31-2009, 11:24 PM	#12
Richard Head Supporting Member Join Date: Mar 2007 Posts: 788	Why Ford quit making the 9" is beyond me.[/QUOTE] I ask myself the same question all the time. __________________

01-30-2009, 06:54 PM	#2
Mike Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Goose Creek, SC Posts: 5,481	I think I put the shims and tt in at the same time. I had to beat it in, because it's a tight squeeze. Mitch has swapped at least 5 of these, so he would be the best to answer. Try giving him a call.

01-31-2009, 10:33 PM	#11
gearmesh, inc. creepy azz cracka Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Summerville Posts: 1,587	Most of the aftermarket differentials I have installed never seem to be able to use the same shims that had the backlash correct on the previous differential. Even if the original shims were to fit with the new differential, my backlash would be way out and the gear contact patterns showed the expected shift in contact. Bad pattern = noisey gears. If you don't have access to any factory diff shims, Ratech makes an install kit for most rearend models out there that comes with bearings, shims, seals, etc. The diff shims in the kit are designed to be stackable. To make things easy, grab your calipers or 0-1" mic and measure and label the shims in the kit according to thickness. This will save you gobs of time when you are switching shims back and forth to get backlash in spec. In this diff shim assortment, you will find 4 of the shims to be .100". These thick shims are meant to sandwich a combination of thin shims between them to stack up to your desired thickness to go behind each diff bearing cup. What I do first is to come up with a shim thickness on each side to where I get an easy but snug fit of sliding the diff assy between them. Check backlash and make adjustments by removing x-amount of thickness from one stack and adding the same x-amount to the other side to keep your snug fit. Good thing about most aftermarket gear sets, the desired backlash dimension is usually scribed onto the OD of the ring gear somewhere. Once you are satisfied with your backlash dimension, do a gear pattern check. You may have to do some tweaking on your pinion depth shim and/or backlash setting to get a good pattern. Most of the time if you go by the dimensions scribed on the gearset, you won't have much adjusting to do, if at all. Then add .004" of thickness to each side to put some preload on your fresh diff bearings and reinstall for good. Where a headscratcher comes in is if you have a lot of bracing welded to your housing. The distortion from welding tends to disturb the original pinion centerline to diff centerline relationship. If you rely solely on the numbers scribed on your new gearset without doing a pattern check, you usually end up with noisey gears. When dealing with a reinforced housing, the right numbers are touch and go depending on what you get for a contact pattern. Sometimes you will assmeble and reassemble the damn thing 8-10 times in your search to get a good pattern. At least a good pattern = quiet gears. You 9" guys are lucky, you can reinforce your housing all you want and your gears never move due to the removeable hoghead design. Why Ford quit making the 9" is beyond me.

02-03-2009, 08:31 PM	#13
chrisheltra Neo is Jesus Join Date: Jan 2007 Posts: 13,265	Woohoo just got it all buttoned up tonight. That TA girdle is a quality piece. Now before I start it is there anything special about the front brakes that I need to know about? __________________ Gap A Hoe Racing

02-03-2009, 10:07 PM	#14
clubracergt1 Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: The Great, white North (Chicagoland) Posts: 2,483	They handle about 60% of your stopping? j/k-Anything specific you need to know? __________________ This space for rent

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Email this Page
Display Modes
Switch to Linear Mode Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode