How to build a 5.4 Mod motor.

[chrisheltra]

This how to was written by DolSVT00 documenting my motor build. Pics were taken by me.

Disclaimer: this isn't intended to teach anybody anything. Don't try to follow these instructions for your own motor. If you do and it blows up, then don't blame me!

Before you start you should make sure all of your clearances are correct by plasti/lead shims and feeler guages, mic's,vernier scale, dial indicators ect. If you dont have that equiptment, I suggest you farm it out to the machine shop that did your ballencing/boreing. I do not intend to add that information or how I checked end play to this thread.

Here's the specs Engine Specs

Things to have checked and or set:
Crank journals
Bearing clearences
End play
Ring gaps
Allignment
Head and block surface RA
Ballence

Also for reference, here are assembly instructions

It's time to start building a motor!


How it looked when we got it all back from the machine shop.










Start inserting the (Ring style locks) retainers into the piston's and mounting rods to the wrist pins. I prefer to install 1 retainer into the piston using the wrist pin as the backing (or a back stop) then removing the wrist pin, inserting the rod, then installing the other ring style retainer in the opposite side. This can also be done with spiral locks (although I hate them and they cut me).


















Start installing the bottom (3rd) ring (set), gap over the holes for the wrist pin. Depending on what ring set you buy this may be different, we had a 3 piece (Sealed Power) set that required a spring type and 2 wire types.



Start installing the bottom wire.


Start installing the top wire.




Now its time to start installing the second (Iron ring) ring. Your manufacturer's instructions will have them labaled, stamped or color coded. The set we used had a certian orientation for the taper and they were color coded. We also had pre filed and numbered each set for each cyl and had them marked for wich cyl and piston that they were to be used on/in.






Now its time to start installing the top (1st) (Iron ring) ring. Your manufacturer's instructions will have them labaled, stamped or color coded. The set we used had a certian orientation for the taper and they were color coded. We also had pre filed and numbered each set for each cyl and had them marked for wich cyl and piston that they were to be used on/in.



This Is what It should look like when your done, repeat for all 8.










Now Its time to start installing the main studs (if your using ARP's like we are). Its best to pre- clean the threads and graciously apply the ARP moly lube.



Notice the location of the odd stud for the oil pick up stand off. (your view is from the front) (timing cover) side of the motor.


We decised to use some high temp VHT black to paint the block before we continued assembly.






Chris thaught it was important to throw up the part number for the bearings since there's been a a few failures with some "other" mod motor bearings out there.











Now its time to start installing the main bearings.












We threw this in here so you could see how 2 of the 3 total main bearings were installed. This is the top set, the bottom (single) bearing can be seen on the main caps above. The thrust bearings must be installed with the oil grooves towards the faces of the crank, and all three are mounted in the rear of the block (flywheel end).




Now I have removed the thrust bearings and am installing the crank. Make sure to graciously apply assembly lube to the bearings before you set the crank.






Now install the front thrust bearing (grooves toward the crank face).




Now install the rear thrust bearing (grooves toward the crank face).








Now install the last thrust bearing (with the rear main cap).


CHris thaught it was also important to show the locations of the factory markings that show direction to the front of the motor and numbering (1-5).






Now its time to install the factory dowel's and side bolts. ARP makes some bolts, but their expensive because their rarely used, we decided to buy new replacements from Ford, as the factory bolts are TTY.