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#1 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: da country
Posts: 502
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well, a little background...we bought our house almost two years ago and the a/c worked really good last year...the unit outside is old, you can tell by looking at it, and I can only guess that the air handler in the attic is just as old even though it doesn't look it...this year it didn't cool so good...at the beginning of the season, I had a guy come out and charge it up...about a week later, no more cold air...have a buddy of mine come out and charge it up, three days later no more cold air...same buddy comes back out and two days later no more cold air...I got fed up and went and bought two window units...but they aren't cutting it...
I really would like some suggestions on what to do besides replace the whole system...the first guy said he wouldn't be able to find the leak at all without even looking and my buddy said that it would be a pain to find the leak because you have to have a certain tool to detect the freon and to just replace the WHOLE system...can't do that right now... so what I don't understand is if you take your car to a mechanic for an oil leak or antifreeze leak that you can't find, they find it...that's their job...is it true that you can't find a freon leak in a house system... I really need some help here guys...I either need someone to tell me what I need to do or put me in the direction of someone who can fix my problem...I really appreciate the help in advance...thanks guys... Chuck. |
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#2 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 2,680
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if you want it fixed call Steve 843-693-5859 and tell him Ray, his mom's neighbor refered you.
trust me on this, he is unbelievable good at AC and fair. he saved my girlfriend thousands of dollars
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#3 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 999
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Quote:
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#4 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 2,680
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you sound jealous
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#5 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 999
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#6 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: da country
Posts: 502
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will he come to Sumter though is the question...cuz that's where I'm at...I'm just desperate right now...my buddy quoted me $3500 to replace my whole 3.5 ton system, but I don't have that much to throw at it right now...just want to get it fix not replaced...
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#7 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 2,680
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you can call and ask. you have a leak, your buddy doesnt need to replace everything to fix a leak
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#8 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: da country
Posts: 502
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Quote:
and I'll call that guy tomorrow and see what he says...thanks again |
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#9 |
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creepy azz cracka
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Summerville
Posts: 1,587
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You need to find someone to charge it up with freon and some fluorescent dye and run it till it quits again. Look all around the innards of your unit with a blacklight and you will surely find the leak. I never had much luck with electronic leak detectors unless I was lucky enough to have the probe right on top of a gross leak.
A lot of decent A/C shops pressurize a suspected leaky system up with about 100 lbs of nitrogen or argon. Then they spray soapy solution on everything and look for bubbles. Sometimes there are still some places that you can't get soapy solution to. That is why I like the dye. |
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#10 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: da country
Posts: 502
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ok thanks...
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#11 |
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The Top Dog
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 2,318
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Three words, "Call Hal Jr" (lxtasy)...
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When the people fear the government, there is tyranny. When the government fears the people, there is liberty. Thomas Jefferson |
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#12 |
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Senior Member
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leak is most likely at the evaporator core in the attic, schrader valve could be leaking , sometimes it could be a bad reversing valve not shifting properly or trash in the txv/orfice. what is the first 5 digits of serial number? tell your friend that most likely for the age of equipmen the pressures will be alot higher than normal. mi
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#13 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: da country
Posts: 502
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you want the first five numbers of the serial number for what...the condenser or the air handler...it's a heat pump system if that makes a difference...just tell me which one and where to find it on there and I'll post it up...thanks Jr.
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#14 |
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Senior Member
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5 numbers for the serial number on both would be nice. That way you actually KNOW the age of the equipment.
I figured it would be HP system is why I said reversing valve. As a heads up, if you don't have the cash for new equipment but have good credit that may I suggest getting it financed? I would also check into 15 seer equipment so you can get a $1500 tax credit + maybe more from manufactures? If the equipment is over 15 years old, that you have done good. If it is an evaporator coil it may be hard to track down. Plus with new equipment you will save in the power bill. Especially over window units any day of the week. *as long as ductwork is sealed properly and properly installed , size wise and installation in general. Model and serial numbers and brand would be great to have of both pieces of equipment (air handler and condenser). Which knowing the brands and age of equipment , we (a/c people) can usually determine what the problem would be by the "history" of what goes wrong.
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#15 |
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Senior Member
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Gerald, we have leak detectors/sniffers we can use. But , I prefer to isolate the system and use nitrogen and pressurized it to 250-300 psi and listening for the "hissing".
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#16 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: da country
Posts: 502
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the air handler numbers up in the attic are as follows:
Snyder General Model# BYMD030/036G Serial# 0000593000-P05-0109 Coil Unit# 75L5 the condenser outside is really faded, and I can't see it with a flashlight when it's dark, so I'll have to check it out tomorrow when I get home before it gets dark... so how old is my air handler...thanks Jr. |
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#17 |
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Senior Member
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I believe Snyders (McQuay brand) has that unit as a 00 model. That being your inside unit of course.
But I am not 100% yet as how Synder does there's. Which is could also be a 93 model. Its atleast 9 years old. Make sure the schrader cores are tight at the valves. BUt, I have a feeling you need to have your friend isolate the system by pumping the refrigerant back into the condenser and pump the system up with 250psi of nitrogen and watch the gauge to see if you can see a drop in psi. But I would also check the coil, as most likely there is a leak there (evaporator coil in the air handler). If no leak is detected (heard, seen, or gauge dropping a good bit) within a 1 hour time frame (since you say it doesn't last but 2 days) than to recover all the refrigerant out of the condenser and do not open the valves. But than on the true high side on the unit to pump the condenser with 250 psi of nitrogen as well. You should be able to find your leak. Could be leaking at a soldered joint somewhere in the wall. But only solution than is to run a new lineset. Do you by chance know how much refrigerant has been added each time? are they weighing it in by a scale or just "guessing"? Do you know the pressure readings before and after they add refrigerant?
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#18 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: da country
Posts: 502
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I don't know how many lbs of freon they're putting in there...they haven't weighed anything anytime...and my lineset runs on the outside of the house thankfully...and I'll tell my buddy about your suggestions and see what we/he can get done...thanks Jr.
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#19 | |
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creepy azz cracka
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Summerville
Posts: 1,587
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Quote:
On automobiles, I have a few diagnostic fittings made up for domestic autos for just hooking up to an evaporator only and doing a pressure hold test. This way, I know for sure whether to deliver the bad news that the dash has to come out! |
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#20 |
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Senior Member
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with that much psi of nitrogen you will hear it especially how long it holds the charge currently. plus there is only so many places it could leak from
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