Synthetic fluids

[Mustangscotty]

Anyone running synthetic fluids? Notice any difference?

[04ctd]

i put some in my T56 in the LS camaro,
and it was noticeably smoother.

i put some in my old Harley motor, and it took 10 degrees off the temp, from 280 to 270, consistently.


I do not run synthetic in the car/truck motors, because i change it so regular

i think it's better to change dino oil and spend $$ a year.
than to leave synthetic in, and change it less, but still spend same $$ per year.


synthetic in a tranny or rearend is a GOOD thing, though, i think


theres no right answer. just do what your wallet tells you.

i spent $125 changing fluids in my truck: oil, tranny, rear.
and the only rear fluid is synthetic,
and that was the CHEAP motor oil for a diesel.

and the nova needs the same,
and the camaro is DRASTICALLY overdue.

and the camaro needs the GM OEM antifreeze drained too, that stuff is supposed to turn into Jello at some point

[1iron]

Only the big hole in my wallet. Gained nada.

[Sean]

I use synthetic in the motor of the truck, but I still change it around 3k.

[LXtasy]

I always try and run full synthetic oil... I tend to change it out less because I usually end up forgetting. When breaking in motors after a rebuild or so I run cheap regular oil.

[1998ta__1991rs]

in a high performance motor run either valvoline VR1 or Brad Penn

[BigdaddyDupree]

the motor in my s10 had synthetic oil since new so i was told. it was plain nasty inside. i run conventional in mine. im cheap

[dustedmopar]

I changed to synthetic Castrol Edge in my Dodge Ram and notice a positive difference. Keep in mind though that just because you run a synthetic motor oil that your oil filters generally only last 3500 miles before they start breaking down and don't filter out as much. I only run WIX filters in my vehicles and even their training classes tell you to change filters at 3500-4000 even if running synthetic. But back to the original question, yea I notice a big difference over conventional. I don't use synthetic in the Turtle though.

[Mustangscotty]

Thanks for the replies.

[LXtasy]

Originally Posted by dustedmopar

I only run WIX filters in my vehicles and even their training classes tell you to change filters at 3500-4000 even if running synthetic.

Makes you wonder if that is still just a marketing deal to keep you purchasing the product sooner than waiting. Which in turn nets twice as many filters being sold. If it was unbiased independent testing that I might believe it

[Matts94Z28]

I never run synthetic oils, but I do use Wix filters.

[Mustangscotty]

I use Ford filters or Fram extra guard. Think I'll pass up the synthetic engine oil but will go with synthetic trans fluid. The rear end is a locker, I don't see the need for synthetic there.

[Sean]

I always use factory filters.

[1998ta__1991rs]

Originally Posted by Mustangscotty

I use Ford filters or Fram extra guard. Think I'll pass up the synthetic engine oil but will go with synthetic trans fluid. The rear end is a locker, I don't see the need for synthetic there.

worst thing you could possibly do is run a fram filter

[gearmesh, inc.]

Originally Posted by 1998ta__1991rs

worst thing you could possibly do is run a fram filter

I second that. In my wrenching career, I have personally seen 3 Fram filters in which the filter media ripped from the end plate that it was glued to and pack up in the end of the filter blocking oil flow. All three instances happened on cold startup when pressure drop across the media is at maximum with cold, thick oil. Sounds like some serious QC and/or design flaw issues to me. I have even heard that Fram runs cardboard endplates to glue the filter media to instead of metal ones!

[dustedmopar]

Originally Posted by 1998ta__1991rs

worst thing you could possibly do is run a fram filter

[QUOTE=gearmesh, inc.;89217]I second that.

x3

[Sean]

Originally Posted by gearmesh, inc.

I second that. In my wrenching career, I have personally seen 3 Fram filters in which the filter media ripped from the end plate that it was glued to and pack up in the end of the filter blocking oil flow. All three instances happened on cold startup when pressure drop across the media is at maximum with cold, thick oil. Sounds like some serious QC and/or design flaw issues to me. I have even heard that Fram runs cardboard endplates to glue the filter media to instead of metal ones!

Its true.
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1662838

[dustedmopar]

Originally Posted by gearmesh, inc.

I have even heard that Fram runs cardboard endplates to glue the filter media to instead of metal ones!

This is a fact http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nfj9KUv0pKY

[WWhittle]

Not to mention that even when a Fram works like it is suppose to, it is still much more restrictive than it's competitors. There are plenty of datalogs online to prove it.

[dustedmopar]

Originally Posted by LXtasy

Makes you wonder if that is still just a marketing deal to keep you purchasing the product sooner than waiting. Which in turn nets twice as many filters being sold. If it was unbiased independent testing that I might believe it

True, but they were referencing to any filter not just their own. I like WIX because they are made the exact same as the Mobile1 but at half the price (filter down to 20 microns, have spiral core design, high quality rubber drain back valve). I think the only filter that filters out to a smaller micron is the new Royal Purple that goes to 22 microns. I would like to see an unbiased test on all the filters to see how they hold up though.